Saint Laurent's bourgeoise finds her kink

By

Dominique Muret

Published
Feb 26, 2020

The second day of runway shows ended beautifully in Paris on Tuesday evening, with a Saint Laurent show which took place at the foot of a sparkling Eiffel Tower and presented a collection that was simultaneously very Yves and very Vaccarello. Indeed, for next winter, creative director Anthony Vaccarello has managed to fuse his own uber sexy style with the more classic bourgeois approach of the Yves Saint Laurent of the 1990s.

Kicking things off, an impressive series of loose cashmere blazers with structured shoulders and large lapels were worn over latex leggings. Perched on high heels, this season's Saint Laurent woman was in her element as she marched confidently through the spotlights trained on the never-ending carpeted runway, her legs wrapped in shining black, her hands slipped into leather gloves and buried in the pockets of her jacket, which featured large checks, an all-over monochrome design or classic menswear fabrics. 

Silk blouses with pussy-bow collars added a further touch of refinement to these looks, worn by chic ladies on the lookout for cheap thrills. When the models switched their vinyl legwear for more traditional woollen shorts with creases, these were paired with transparent blouses or even lingerie-like low-cut bodysuits in lace. When they squeezed into tight tops in burgundy latex, they complemented them with strict knee-length wraparound skirts in camel-coloured wool or Prince of Wales check. 

Each silhouette represented the perfect balance between the two styles. As explained by Vaccarello in his collection notes, "I wanted to find that balance or tension which defines the modernity of the Saint Laurent style, between controlled rigour and the surrender to pleasure. Saint Laurent is the need for elegance and perversity. Without one or the other, it would only be bourgeois or vulgar."

A sensible dress in red velvet was worn with thigh-high boots, while a maxi coat was left open to reveal a black latex bodysuit and lace stockings, and a woollen cape was worn over a leather dress. Latex was everywhere, covering the models' bodies like glossy petrol. Although the overall palette was dark, this wardrobe for Fall/Winter 2020-21 also offered up a chromatic explosion of bold shades thrown together in gutsy combinations, from red, violet and fuchsia to electric blue, purple and wine.