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Portuguese design competition Sangue Novo saw reinvented silhouettes and fabrics
As in every edition of ModaLisboa, the Sangue Novo competition for emerging designers brought together Portuguese labels to be on the lookout for that will become the future stars of Lisbon’s avant-garde scene. Held at the Hub Criativo Beato between March 10 and 13, the Portuguese capital city’s fashion week presented a total of five collections from up-and-coming designers, all reinventing classic silhouettes in an innovative manner.
Young fashion designer Maria Clara, originating from the island of Madeira, distinguished herself by showcasing a collection inspired by myths and legends from her own land. Escaping a reality in which the fashion industry “pollutes and disposes tons of clothes daily”, her sustainable lineup counted on asymmetrical dresses, embroidered with dozens of safety pins responsible for adding a punk edge to the garments. Having previously formed part of fellow compatriot Constança Entrudo’s design team, Clara’s unique patchwork skirt as well as her beaded, studded, and chain details earned her a double recognition by Sangue Novo.
Winning the popular vote and endowed with 1,500 euros, she received the United Colors of Benetton prize in addition to the ModaLisboa x Tintes Textiles award. This recognition will allow her to do an artistic residency in the company, in which she will develop a capsule collection using her own materials, which implies a financial backing of 2,000 euros.
However, Middlesex University graduate in fashion design, Filipe Cerejo, emerged victorious, winning the ModaLisboa x Polimoda award that granted him a master’s degree scholarship at the Italian university and a cash prize of 3,500 euros. His take on the classic trench coat and asymmetrically tailored garments, featuring crisscross elements and one-sleeved jackets worn unconventionally, were enough to seduce the jury chaired by Portuguese fashion industry player, Miguel Flor. Both designers will also receive showroom and communications services from the Showpress agency.
Among the other presentations from the event, Abrantes-born designer and model Ivan Hunga Garcia’s work particularly stood out among the rest. What was probably the most disruptive lineup of Sangue Novo’s March edition featured wrapped bodies in several layers of almost transparent, wet-look fabric. Genderless silhouettes were presented in constant dialogue with nature: from skirts meant to resemble sets of leaves or roots, to shawls that seemed to be made out of forest herbs.
Meanwhile, art enthusiast Maria Curado presented her collection entitled ‘Truth or Dare’.
Deconstructed denim overlays and chiffon fabrics took center stage in the lineup characterized by nets and seaweed enveloping the models. Last but not least, the designer who finished his studies at the Soares do Reis art school in Porto, João Viana, upheld the concept of nudity of his brand Veehana.
Bodies were displayed through games of textures and intertwined fabrics, at times structured, in a color palette ranging between grays and nudes, while a bold splash of red painted a pair of semi-transparent pants.
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