Milan Fashion Week comes to an end with Ferrari, Durazzi and Matty Bovan
Milan Fashion Week ended in beauty with the return of blue skies. Alongside Giorgio Armani, the undisputed king of Italian fashion, three outsiders stood out on Sunday with their spring-summer 2023 collections. These included Ferrari, which was on the catwalk for the second time in Lombardy with its new luxury ready-to-wear line; Ilaria Durazzi, a promising new name in Italian fashion; and the avant-garde London designer Matty Bovan, who was in Milan thanks to the support of Dolce & Gabbana.
Ferrari pulls out all the stops
Like last season, Ferrari went full out, this time inviting its guests to a theater, the Teatro Lirico. The red curtain rose in front of a crowded audience to reveal a film exalting the values of the house. The nighttime panoramic views of Los Angeles set the tone. For his third collection, designer Rocco Iannone was inspired by the sprawling Californian metropolis, which embodies all possibilities.
With a visor on their heads and comfortable colored sneakers, the models, both men and women, wore khaki canvas utilitarian suits, followed by sportswear - t-shirts, baggy cargo pants, sweaters, jackets - combined with more chic pieces such as silk tops and blouses, as well as a series of tie and dye denim outfits, in which the carmaker's famous Modena yellow was strongly present. For the evening, there were glittering outfits covered with silver maxi sequins and iridescent pleated skirts.
Leather is the star of the show with jackets and pants, but also superb driver's suits, available in black, brown, yellow and Ferrari red, as well as in a very sporty fleece version, like this red model with a black stripe, decorated with the multiple patches of Ferrari’s F1 sponsors that looked more real than real. And for good reason, this is Carlos Sainz’s suit, the prestigious Scuderia’s star racer.
"I didn't just want to tell the story of the automotive world, but this season I tried to capture the essence of Ferrari’s spirit through the archive images and the imagination created around this legendary brand. There are the Ferrari codes, but also many other elements mixed between them. Starting with the four main materials of the collection, cotton, denim, leather and silk", explained the creative director, who says he has created a "practical and contemporary" wardrobe that skilfully merges tailoring, workwear and the world of motor racing.
Ilenia Durazzi: it’s all in the smallest details
Durazzi? It's the emerging name that everyone is talking about on the Milanese fashion scene. Originally from Urbino, in the Marche region, Durazzi is no beginner. At 34, the Italian has 13 years of experience in the luxury sector, eight of which she spent in Paris. She graduated from the Polimoda school in Florence, and moved to the French capital at 22 to do an internship in Balenciaga’s accessories department under the aegis of Nicolas Ghesquière. Two months later, she was hired. After bags and shoes, she moved on to men's clothing, which became her specialty.
She then moved to Maison Margiela, where she gradually climbed the ladder to become head designer for menswear. Five years ago, she moved back to Italy to Milan, where she continues to work for major houses, including Tod’s as a consultant, while also collaborating on projects and exhibitions of contemporary art. This path led her to meet artist Maurizio Cattelan, with whom she founded her brand, Durazzi. The two art-lovers have been together since they met.
A high-end women's ready-to-wear label with a contemporary couture touch. The young woman injects all her know-how and experience, relying on a network of collaborators and first-rate suppliers, which she has patiently built up over a decade. Thus, her bags are made by the same manufacturers as the luxury brands. Everything is produced in Milan, including fabrics that she has developed exclusively for her brand. A first test collection launched in February 2022 seduced about 20 top boutiques in the world. Durazzi is making a statement with this new collection for spring-summer 2023, presented in her elegant Milanese studio-showroom.
Each piece is impeccably cut, and worked to the smallest detail. The ultra-fine knits are made of silk thread, the black nappa leather jacket is highlighted by a fine silver braid, and the buttons are marked with the Durazzi logo. Often a twist enhances the garment, like perforated pants with an animal spirit, knitted dresses adorned with pearls or a leather skirt decorated with raffia.
The designer starts with classic pieces, which she redefines through influences from art and architecture, but also from the equestrian world, her other passion. Thus the stretch jersey jumpsuit is equipped with adjustable leather straps and protections between the legs like riding pants, while the heels under the flat shoes adopt a horseshoe shape. The chosen positioning is high end, focusing on bags sold between 1,100 and 1,900 euros, while ready-to-wear is offered from 500 euros and shoes go up to 1,400 euros for the riding boots, Durazzi's emblematic piece.
Matty Bovan’s punk-queer pop
Back on the catwalk with Matty Bovan. The British punk-queer-pop designer moved from London to Milan this season thanks to the support of Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, who provided him with fabrics. The designer is having a blast continuing his experiments with jacquards, damask fabrics and sublime brocade fabrics.
Bovan graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2015. He was the winner of the LVMH Graduate Prize and the Woolmark Prize in 2021.This knitwear specialist cheerfully mixes textures, patterns and colors in voluminous and baroque patchwork constructions, playing on eccentric associations with a touch of psychedelia and excessive overlaying.
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