M.A.C Cosmetics launches its skincare line and strengthens its position in emerging markets

This Wednesday, March 1, while the women's Paris Fashion Week is in full swing, the make-up brand M.A.C Cosmetics, owned by the American group Estée Lauder, is celebrating the launch of Locked Kiss Ink, a range of lip inks presented as being extra long-lasting and comfortable. The label, which has teamed up with Giambattista Valli, Balmain (which has signed the beauty licence with the Estée Lauder group) and Rick Owens to do the make-up for their shows in Paris, will welcome 800 people, among whom are high-profile influencers, in a Parisian hotspot.

Since the beginning of the year, the label has been launching more and more products. In January, M.A.C. Cosmetics launched Hyper Real Skincare, a skincare line that includes a serum, a cleansing cream and a cleanser, starting from 21 euros. A range that promises hydration, reinforcement of the skin barrier and good make-up hold. All formulated with Japanese peony extract. "M.A.C Cosmetics has always offered some skincare products related to make-up, but new technologies and new active ingredients allow us to go further. Hyper Real Skincare is a range that we will continue to develop, particularly with cleansers to effectively remove make-up, and other innovations," says Philippe Pinatel, the make-up brand's global general manager for the past five years.

Born in 1984 in Toronto, Canada, under the impetus of a photographer/make-up artist and a hair salon owner, M.A.C Cosmetics quickly established itself among professional make-up artists. In order to reach the end consumer, the brand has established a network of 600 boutiques throughout the world, including 33 in France, in addition to its 6,200 retailers.

"Having our own network of boutiques allows M.A.C. to be the most international make-up brand in the world, because we don't wait for a distributor to open its doors to us in order to establish ourselves in a country. For example, we recently opened a shop in Ethiopia, we are also present in Kenya and Nigeria. We have also been in India for 15 years, where M.A.C. accounts for 40% of make-up sales," explains Philippe Pinatel.

The brand does not disclose its turnover but is said to exceed one billion dollars. Its global network allows it, to achieve consistent sales throughout the world and to be particularly successful in emerging markets.

However, M.A.C is increasingly challenged by new make-up brands, such as, to name but one, Rihanna's Fenty Beauty, which is owned by the LVMH group and which has made inclusivity its priority. "We've been an inclusive brand since we started. For Studio Fixe alone we have 75 shades, and our global reach means we can cater for all skin tones. If there's a shade missing, we're able to respond quickly to that need. Between 200 and 300 make-up brands are created every year, many of which are inclusive, and we are delighted to have been a part of this awakening and to inspire. Being challenged also pushes us to rethink and look at new opportunities," Philippe Pinatel explains.

M.A.C has strengthened VivaGlam, a programme launched in 1994 that has raised $500 million and focuses on the fight against HIV/AIDS and support for women, girls and the LGBTQIA+ community.

After being especially impacted by Covid, both as a retailer and a make-up brand, M.A.C has returned to pre-pandemic levels, and has been (re)gaining market share for the past 18 months.

M.A.C Cosmetics launches its skincare line and strengthens its position in emerging markets

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