Lutz Huelle brings glamour to everyday travel

By

Triana Alonso

Published
Mar 3, 2019

Over the last few months, Lutz Huelle has been taking his first steps with Delpozo. Following his appointment as creative director of the Spanish ready-to-wear brand in December, the life of the German designer has become a constant journey. The latest runway from his namesake brand was a testament to this and to the designer's gradual appropriation of the Delpozo style. 

"Travelling like never before in my life made me think about comfort and movement, even in pieces that aren't made for travelling," explained Huelle of "The Voyaguese," his collection for Fall/Winter 2019, presented in the aristocratic chambers of the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild. "I've always liked the idea of wearing dramatic clothes to do boring, everyday things. Going to the supermarket in a pink down jacket can make the experience much more fun. And you never know who you might meet," he added. 

Inspired by this theme of travel, no doubt as a result of the numerous flights between Paris and Madrid that the designer has had to make since December, the designer sent out a collection which was "extremely glamorous and easy to wear at the same time" conceived for "non-places" and waiting rooms. Woollen coats styled like flowing capes, some of which had hoods, slipped off models' shoulders as though by accident, and were followed on the runway by perfect beige raincoats with short or puff sleeves, as well as nylon waterproofs which channelled a style that was closer to the designer's streetwear roots. 

Speaking of Huelle's origins, however, it was notable that there was not a single piece of denim in this collection, which was presented to the rhythms of Vivaldi and Courtney Love. This season's globetrotting gal explored the brand's trademark volume in sleeves, trousers and skirts, which "will look perfect, even after hours sitting on a plane." Jacquard skirts with turquoise or silver sparkles were combined with mohair jerseys, which delighted everyone already imagining what the designer's first collection for the house founded by Jesús del Pozo might look like. Pink taffeta, light evening dresses and necklines which took centre stage thanks to diamond necklaces all came together in a collection which aimed to be perfect for "hanging out on the sofa or painting the town red."

As for Delpozo, the brand will present its propositions for Fall/Winter 2019 at the Riccardo Grassi Showroom from 5th March. The transition collection wasn't shown at this season's London Fashion Week, where the Madrid-based label has been hosting its runway shows since it switched from New York. Delpozo's next date with Fashion Week therefore won't come until next season, which will see the much anticipated debut of its brand new German creative director.