Gucci: the revolution is underway

By

Dominique Muret

Published
Jun 23, 2015

Gucci’s menswear collection in January was just a taste of things to come. Designed at short notice by Alessandro Michele following the ousting of creative director Frida Giannini, whom he has succeeded, the winter collection marked a radical break with last decade’s Gucci.

The new artistic director of Kering’s flagship brand proved even more daring on Monday with his new spring-summer 2016 menswear collection.

The collection reflects key elements from the previous season that are destined to become "Gucci’s new iconic pieces", from the beret to the moccasin slipper - this time a golden version - to the leather belt with two metal GGs, to women’s laced ballerina shoes, this time for men.

The silhouette is vaguely seventies with ultra long bell-bottom and jackets with short sleeves overlaid with an imaginary past evoked by ribbons tied around the neck, delicate embroidery, and crochet ensembles. But the primary focus is clearly exotic tapestry suits, including patterns and colors calling to mind tapestries from yesteryear’s aristocratic mansions.

Every detail softens the new Gucci man, from the quilted pastel flower fixed right in the center of the shirt collar, to the lace or tulle ruffs, to the flower embroidered on the jacket pocket, or even the long rounded shirt collars... 

"It's very specifically targeted. To buy these kinds of pieces, you need to have the right physique, the right attitude, lots of money and to be homosexual. That's a lot of specific criteria," noted an observer.

"Alessandro Michele has reinterpreted the house’s codes with a more contemporary vision. The first pieces from the winter collection, which have hardly been introduced in stores, have been well received, especially from younger and ‘fashion-oriented’ customers," said Gucci CEO Marco Bizzarri.

The metamorphosis will continue over the course of this year with a new store concept, including a pilot corner that is currently being tested out in the Milan store on Via Montenapoleone. Exit the golden decoration; enter white walls and red carpet!