Giambattista Valli’s extraordinary women

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Sep 30, 2019

There are many good dressmakers; there are good number-twos; there are wannabe creative directors and there are armies of merchandisers; and, then again, there are real designers. 

Many feel called to fashion; but few are chosen. But one true member of the elect has to be Giambattista Valli, who staged one of his most composed ready-to-wear collections on a balmy Monday in Paris. Clothes dedicated to “extraordinary women,” an ideal starting point in a season that has witnessed the renaissance of ladylike chic in fashion.
 
His moodboard was a rich selection of arty grande dames from Peggy Guggenheim and Gloria Vanderbilt to Louise Nevelson or Giovanna Battaglia Engelbert.

The result was a fresher, quirkier vision than one traditional gets chez Giambattista and all the better for that.
 
Neat little pink chiffon frocks with dropped courtesan sleeves and tiny bows; perfectly cut white town-coats, embroidered with wrought-iron style floral patterns; flirty lace pencil dresses with puff sleeves and lots of marvelous negligée looks. The Valli gal losing her occasional primness in a more lascivious moment, even going out on dates in crocheted bras.

 
Moreover, buoyed by the financial support of Artémis – the Pinault family holding that acquired a minority stake in his maison – Valli is cleverly expanding his product range.
 
Great new platform sandals with art deco or marble patterns; clever sockettes with floral patterns; charming ceramic flower armbands and, most importantly, a great selection of totes and handbags – finished with bullion flowers and insignia. All presented inside a raw, third floor in mid-construction of the decorative arts museum within the Louvre, to lots of applause.
 
“It’s an expression of esteem for certain extraordinary women. Outside existing schema. Some might say eccentric, but I say curious and open and effortless,” concluded the Roman-born designer.