Dsquared2 and Anteprima bring a cheerful summer vibe to Milan
A light, warm and cheerful breeze blew across the Milanese catwalks on Thursday. On the second day of the shows, the designers imagined a carefree and colourful summer 2023. At Dsquared2, we find the torrid and summery atmosphere of a beach holiday, while the Japanese fashion house Anteprima took its public to the heart of nature, to a park, to celebrate its 30th anniversary.
Judging by the shows seen so far, from Fendi to No.21, all in transparency and sensuality, there will be no need to dress up next summer, or just a little. With global warming, women's wardrobes are down to a few skimpy pieces and impalpable tunics, where lingerie is the season's key accessory, as demonstrated by Dsquared2 on Thursday.
Twins Dean and Dan Caten chose a sumptuous palace to unveil a collection that is glittering and fun, casual and elegant, playing on a very successful mix of colours and materials, from sun-kissed pastel shades, to the shiny effects of sequins and varnished fabrics, to an explosion of brightly coloured check patterns.
It's all about layering. Jackets, blouses, tunics, dresses, jumpsuits and impalpable or translucent loincloth skirts are worn over neoprene sports tops or nylon cycling shorts, giving the ensemble an airy feel. Some translucent jersey garments suggest a wet effect, while others, in terry cloth, underline a beach spirit.
There is no shortage of sexy numbers. Jackets and skirts in transparent plastic, just edged with white seams, expose the body barely covered by a bikini, as do sky-blue lace trousers. Elsewhere, dresses and skirts in sparkling sequins are strategically unzipped on a breast, a thigh, or in the lower back.
The same freshness can be found at Anteprima. Founded in 1993 by Izumi Ogino, the first Japanese woman to have walked the catwalk in Milan in 1998, the house inaugurated the festivities for its 30th anniversary on Thursday with a very special show organized in the Sempione Park, with the Milan Arena as a backdrop. As the public crowded under the leafy trees lining the catwalk, the models arrived in a very eco-friendly way by tram, dressed in loose-fitting sporty chic dresses, their heads topped with retro hats.
Everything exudes lightness, with its floating nylon overcoats and undulating volumes. For this commemorative collection, the designer, who has settled in Milan after working in retail for major houses such as Prada, returned to her origins with a whole series of black and white pieces, where a few primary colors are gradually inserted. Graphics are very present with geometric lines and patterns.
The knitwear, made in Hong Kong with a remarkable level of finishing, is at the heart of the collection and of Ogino's work. Not to be missed is the other bestseller of the house, the "wirebag", offered this season in a mini version. Launched in 1998, this bag made of crocheted plastic threads, washable and infinitely reusable, has become the label's emblem. Attentive to sustainable development, the designer also designed paper seats that the spectators could take away at the end of the show.
Anteprima's turnover is 29.3 million dollars, which does not include licensee revenues. Its top three markets are Japan, where the brand has 11 shops, China and the United States. It is also distributed through some 40 points of sale worldwide, including Milan and Rome, where it has just opened a pop-up shop in the very chic Via Del Babuino.
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