Craig Green unveils sartorial shamans for spring-summer 2021

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Oct 30, 2020

Craig Green became the latest designer to unveil his new ideas online, with a digital lookbook of his spring-summer 2021 collection released Friday morning.

 
Green, one of the most fertile imaginations in fashion today, presented 22 looks, via Dropbox, with no program note - all very much in keeping with his sartorial shamanic aesthetic.
 
The collection marked the first display from Green since he made his Paris runway debut in January of this year with a “multiple garments” wandering-warrior collection staged in the Marais.

Green’s mood was clear from his opening look, an all-white combination of Blade Runner film noir cop coat with inverted lapels, worn over drawstring pants; and completed with southwester hat; padded totes and one of Craig’s headwear chandeliers.  Three looks later he presented the same combo in all black.
           
The UK designer also played with his most iconic theme – tent-like garments extended from the torso on metallic frames. Seen in khaki or anthracite versions where military shirts; combat vests; Eisenhower jackets and Desert Patrol caps are hung from the metal railing. 

 
Mongolian herder met urban hipster in several combos - most impressively the matelassé cotton jackets with patch pockets; and the shoulder bags with metal spring straps.
 
There are possibly few more copied designers anywhere in fashion today than Green, who looks certain to spawn a new gang of imitators with some brilliant bandage-like, rubberized open-toed shoe-socks. The fruit of the London-based designer’s collab’ with adidas Originals of Germany. 
 
Photographed by Amy Gwatkin and styled for the look-book by Robbie Spencer, the collection will begin retailing in January next year.
 
For his finale, a quintet of Imperial firemen, in wonderful emesmbles of plenipotentiary cloaks; dandy overalls; and uber wide pants. All finished with contrasting tape; dangling straps and humongous kit bags for the sophisticated global adventurer who is Green’s fan base.

 
Craig Green’s ideas for next spring come some four weeks after the end of the Paris runway season – which due to Covid featured menswear and womenswear. In a particular year, the pandemic has led designers and major houses – like Balenciaga, Raf Simons, Michael Kors and Tory Burch - to spread out the unveiling of their ideas online many weeks after the official seasons.
 
That said, even though Green’s collection will be one of the last to be shown, it is arguably the single most important menswear statement of the year so far. Craig is quite simply that good.