Act N°1: Milan’s up-and-coming young design label

By

Dominique Muret

Translated by
Isabelle Crossley

Published
Feb 25, 2020

Act N°1 captivated the public with its fourth runway show that took place during Milan Fashion Week which concluded on Monday. Young designers Gassanoff and Lin, who launched their brand in 2016, are gaining both quality and confidence as they continue to distill their own brand of inclusive fashion which, open to all cultures, remains consistent with their initial vision.

For its autumn/ winter 2020/ 2021 collection, the design duo cast a diverse selection of young female models who hailed from all continents as well as mothers who carried their babies on their backs, and older women. Male models also walked the runway, as they have done for the past three seasons, to show how pieces by the womenswear brand can be worn by men, too.
 
The models walked the runway amid blood-red décor which symbolised that blood has “neither race nor gender”. Silhouettes were long and full of movement. Gathered and flared dresses, loose trousers, and maxi-tunic trousers fused into each other with tailored suits, bodices, and coats. Clothing was cut from silky fabrics and glided sensuously across the skin.

The beautiful cuts of the basic and wearable garments and textile work showcased the strong points of designer Luca Lin, the son of Chinese parents who settled in Italy, and Azeri Galib Gassanoff, who grew up in Georgia. Notable textiles included silks, shantungs, and satins decorated with landscapes and flora and fauna that looked like it was painted in watercolours or with a fine brush.
 
The collection had an intense colour palette of purple, red, and green and shimmering textiles. Playing with transparency, brilliant effects came in the shape of shimmering silver pieces and hybrid constructions, such as a velvet jacket, featured ruffled tulle for an all-green look. A scarf slipped into a trench coat to create a luxurious wardrobe that epitomised how the brand is continuing to move upmarket. Indeed, the brand is now stocked in around 70 multi-brand stores.