Armani Privé: still dreaming

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Jan 24, 2018

Giorgio Armani decided to dream this season, and the result was his most phantasmagorical haute couture show in many seasons.

 

Ethereal, and very much unconnected to any historical era, this was a dreamy display – staged to ambient electronic music. The soundtrack inside the Palais de Chaillot featured Mike Oldfield’s Let There Be Light.
 
The Italian couturier’s big idea were a series of remarkable fabrics. Acres of hand-painted silk – with modernist mannerist images of clouds, sky and high altitude light used in a collection very much weighed towards the evening.

He even painted silver silk pantsuits with abstract cloudy blotches and smears. Indeed Giorgio was so into his idea a half dozen models donned hand painted hosiery that matches their cocktail dresses. While his flouncy bustier dresses were cut with rare abandon as were his mini cocktails, made essentially of one massive bow. Hyper color coordinated – seeing as he matched many looks with enamel earrings and pendants in exactly the same colors; and even coordinated the dusty pinks and blues of the fabric with face maker. Not perhaps with always the happiest results.
 
For his finale, five handsome male hunks escorted models in Oscar winner worthy gowns.
 
And, one could certainly not fault his front-row. When it comes to bona fide actresses rather than wannabe red carpet players then Armani beats everyone else in Paris couture. And they all managed to wear Armani in their own different ways. Oscar winner Marion Cotillard in jeans and a red and white Breton top under a leather jerkin; Isabelle Huppert in a black pants combination; Diane Kruger in an Asian inspired floral silk gown, and Valeria Bruni Tedeschi in a sequined pants suit.
 
Now that’s what we call range.